I tried my "Auto Levels" technique with out much effectiveness. The flicker present for high speed video in artificial/AC lighting situations is quite different. Now I don't need to worry about post processing the footage. I invested in ND filters that let me keep my camera wide open while still dragging the shutter. Obviously the more permanent solution to my time lapse flicker problem was to operate with the iris fully open every time. For these situations, I was able to minimize the flicker in post by using Adobe After Effects "Auto Levels" effect with somewhat large temporal spacing. The flicker in studio is a little different because it is caused by a controlled source.
This created a wide variety of uncontrolled variable light changes. The flicker there was a result of my iris not being fully open, and the image was not consistently exposed with the same exact duration. I have dealt with flicker in the past when doing outdoor time lapses. Viewing the footage shot, the flicker was not completely evident until it played back in slow motion on my computer.
#Remove led flicker premiere 240p#
I shot the footage at 240p with a 1/500 shutter (In an effort to comply with the 180 degree shutter rule). I set out to test the flicker using some indoor tungsten studio lights. There is a great in-depth explanation about lighting flicker at high speeds at the Abel Cine website in a FAQ about the Phantom High Speed Camera. It is something that naturally occurs with the usage of artificial/studio lighting powered by AC current. I want to preface this whole article by stating that the "light flicker" is not something that is wrong with the camera. (Full 1080 HD, 240 frames per second in 8'ish second bursts). A big part of this testing, and a big draw for most people, is the slow motion capabilities. In my short time so far with the Sony NEX-FS700, I have been trying to put it through it's technological paces.
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